Today, I invite you to join me for a look at the historic town of Besalú, a corner where stones do more than form walls—they guard the memory of centuries. Located in the province of Girona, this village is much more than a postcard; it is a sanctuary for those of us seeking to understand where we come from while walking without haste.

Walking through Besalú is like traveling back in time. As you wander its streets, you will feel history breathing in every corner, wherever you step.

Location and Origins

Besalú rises majestically in the region of La Garrotxa, on the banks of the Fluvià River. Its location was no accident: it sits upon a natural crossroads that has historically connected the Pyrenees with the coast. Upon arrival, the first thing to greet you will be its imposing medieval bridge, a structure that seems to emerge from the river itself, inviting you to leave the present behind.

The first recorded inhabitants of this enclave were the Iberians. They settled atop the stone promontory that dominates the area and, certainly, they did not pick the wrong spot. The proximity of the Fluvià and Capellada rivers made this a unique location: they had resources and were protected. Today, we can still observe their trace; I invite you to look at their ruins and imagine, 2,000 years ago, how life must have pulsed at this strategic point.

And I say they weren't wrong because later the Romans came and settled here too, making the town grow with all their technology.

The Golden Age

But if Besalú stands out for anything, it is its golden age: the Middle Ages. I call it "golden" to give it a romantic and melancholic hue, but back then, Besalú was a true powerhouse. Middle Ages, knights, conquests, and battles. A frenetic town where different cultures coexisted; where the Jews, living alongside the Christians, left us wonders like the Mikveh (the ritual bath), which was found by pure chance. And thinking about it... what other hidden treasures are still tucked away?

In fact, about a 10-minute walk from the village—well, make it a few more since I walk slow, but not too many more, eh...—they are restoring another Iberian site.

Treasures and Relics

But let's continue with the town's treasures. Inside the Church of Sant Vicenç, a piece of the True Cross (Lignum Crucis) is kept—a fragment of the cross where Jesus Christ died. The story of this relic is also curious: what remains today is the second one donated by the Vatican; the original, brought by Guifré el Pilós (Wilfred the Hairy), was stolen. But just to see the cross, it’s worth the one euro entrance fee. It also holds a relic of Saint Vincent, and the church itself is a treasure with its grand portal.

Movie-like Characters

And the characters... looking back, we could make true movies about them. We have Count Bernat I, the famous "Tallaferro". Just saying his name brings deeds and conquests to mind. His nickname in English would be "Ironcutter", and legend has it he was so fierce that his sword split his enemies' iron armor. Thanks to the poem by Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer, his legend lives on.

Also knights like Guifré II, who honorably defended the county against noble uprisings, and of course, the great Guifré el Pilós, a historical figure not just for the county, but for all of Catalonia. Legend says he created the Senyera (the Catalan flag) by dipping his four fingers into his bloody wound and sliding them across his golden shield... epic, right?

And let's never forget the inhabitants, like the Jewish Community who left us an incalculable spiritual legacy, visible in the urban layout and their respect for tradition. Or the anonymous artisans who challenged the laws of physics and the floods of the Fluvià River to raise a stone jewel that has resisted for centuries.

I love Besalú so much that, years ago, I tried to write a novel where the protagonist came to sell his products at the market, reflecting the commercial importance that Bisuldunum (the name given to current Besalú back then) had at the time.

Beyond the Middle Ages

Walking its streets doesn't just take us to the Medieval era; its industrial past is also relevant: its old stationery factory, its mill, its power plant... And another past that is also curious: that of the circus.

Step inside and see the greatest show on earth at Circusland. A museum that breaks the historical theme to introduce us to the thematic history of the circus world.

My Opinion

In my opinion, Besalú is not just a pretty village with a historic bridge. It is walking on soil with more than two thousand years of history, a place with legends, like the Simiots (those half-man, half-ape beings that terrified the area and can be seen hanging on the monastery's facade), or curiosities like the filming of movies like Perfume and the HBO series Westworld.

A place where it is mandatory to stop and live it. Discover gems like the Mikveh, one of the best-preserved ritual baths in Europe. It is a place of purification and silence that connects you with the purest medieval spirituality. [Discover it here]. What other treasures do Besalú and La Garrotxa still hide from us?

Stroll across the Romanesque bridge, an undisputed icon and symbol of union between eras. It’s the perfect spot to stop and feel the weight of history beneath your feet, or walk the medieval streets of the Jewish Quarter. There, you’ll find not only vestiges of the past but shops where you can pick up a souvenir and say, "I, too, was part of its history."

And of course, I must recommend the gastronomy. Try the volcanic cuisine of La Garrotxa. Delicious. But be warned: you must love meat. As for vegetarians and vegans... you're grounded! (Just a joke 😉).